Updating wine

It is a meeting place with the perfect atmosphere, where fresh local ingredients and good wines are most important and where the open kitchen allows you to get a direct sense of the world of flavour.

Honestly, I’m not trying to dodge that question, but before we get to it I have to tell you about the second most frequently posed question that also used to bug me, but no longer does: I used to try and answer this precisely, which meant that every time I was asked which my favorite wine is I had to think out what the new answer was, because I kept on discovering new wines that excited me.

Then, I realized I could answer the question more generally and this would also be more honest.

Now, in September 2015, it is making me not only the author, but also the publisher of ROCK STARS OF WINE AMERICA, a series of short e-books that tell the stories of the underground rock star winemakers of America.

#1 is an outrageous exception to that rule telling the story of my first close encounter of the third kind with America, which is the backstory to the entire series.

When my first articles were published in Decanter Magazine in 1984 I was beginning studying for a masters degree in cultural history at the Royal College of Art (RCA) and had no idea that this “sideline” would become my whole life after I graduated in July 1986.

Within a few years I’d moved to Berlin, where I became fluent in spoken and written German.

Now my answer to the second frequently posed question is always the same: .

That wine could come from anywhere and be made from any grape variety, be red or white, sweet or dry, anything else it wants to!

Even the most rational people in the room started to doubt that there was a normal explanation for all that.

Either way, I now owe you an answer to that most frequently posed question that sometimes bugs me.

Since September 2001 I’ve been the wine columnist of the Sunday Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, Germany’s equivalent of The New York Times.

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